On New Orleans, Sassy Bosses & Army Guys (Oyster Po' boy Tacos with Jalapeño Remoulade Recipe)

I was 19 the first time I went to New Orleans. It was summer and I was working full-time as a press intern in DC, where I spent most of my days writing press releases, sending media kits, and pitching stories.

I also spent a lot of time taking long Pinot Grigio-fueled lunches with my boss--a sassy older southern lady who would always say things like:

"Honey, I've been working here since sexual harassment was called flirting."

I loved her.

The coolest thing about this job (besides that lady) was that in August, all of us interns got to accompany our bosses on a business trip.

And not some lame car-trip to a conference room in nowheresville, either!

A real live business trip, via plane, to New Orleans.

Where we each got our own executive suite.

And an expense account.

For a week.

I loved it.

The one thing I didn't love about this trip was that I was alone most of the non-working time. The other intern had brought his girlfriend along so they were always off doing couple-y things together.

My closest friend on the trip was my sassy boss, but she would head back to her room early each evening (ya know...because she was in her 70s), and I would be left by myself.

At 19. In New Orleans. With a suite and an expense account.

The first couple nights were actually pretty low-key. I ordered up various crayfish dishes, and ate them on my king size bed in the hotel robe while watching pay per view movies.

But when I told this to my boss, she took pity on me and told one of my other bosses (a younger guy in his mid 30s) to:

"take the girl out, damn it"

So he dutifully chaperoned me on my first trip to Bourbon Street where I dragged him around from one non-carding Hurricane-selling booth to another.

It was madness!

Unsurprisingly, I ended up meeting a guy that night in the midst of the flurry. He was a VERY handsome 30-year-old Army sergeant whose name I remember because it was Paul Walker--just like the actor in what was then still just one The Fast & The Furious movie.

For some reason, my chaperone-boss deemed Sgt. Walker trustworthy enough to entrust with my care, and left me alone with him.

Clearly, my boss was a TERRIBLE chaperone.

Note to aspiring chaperones: don't ever leave buzzed 19-year-old girls alone on Bourbon Street with hot older Army guys on leave!

Fortunately, Sgt. Walker ended up being a pretty stand-up guy, and I (and my bosses) were surprised when he showed up in the press room at the convention center the next day with a bouquet of pink roses and an invite to lunch, during which he [at last! the point of the story!] introduced me to my first oyster po'boy.

The flavors of these fried oyster tacos remind me of that trip. Shucked oysters are coated in a crispy spiced cornmeal batter and fried until crisp. I serve them in soft tortillas spread generously with a spicy jalapeno remoulade. Add fresh tomatoes, avocados and cilantro, and you're in for a delicious summer treat.

No hurricanes, chaperones, or soldiers required.

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Oyster Po'boy Tacos with Jalapeño Remoulade

Ingredients
For the Jalapeño Remoulade:
1 cup mayonnaise
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
2 teaspoons red wine vinegar
1 lime, juiced
1/4 cup pickled jalapeños, finely chopped
1/2 bunch fresh cilantro, finely minced
1 bunch scallions, finely minced

For the oysters:
3/4 cup ground cornmeal (I like Bob's Red Mill)
1/2 cup all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1 teaspoon cayenne pepper
3 teaspoons paprika
1/2 teaspoon baking powder
2 tablespoons cornstarch
Coconut or Canola Oil for frying
24 oysters, shucked
Tortillas, fresh cilantro, diced tomatoes, diced avocados, for serving


Directions
Make the remoulade: Whisk together sauce ingredients, cover and put in fridge to chill while you make tacos.

Prepare the oysters: Whisk together the cornmeal, flour, salt, cayenne, paprika, baking powder, and cornstarch.

Heat about 2 inches of oil in a heavy pot until it reaches 350 degrees.

Working in batches, toss the oysters in the flour mixture and coat completely. Fry in the hot oil about 1 minute per side until golden and crispy. Place on a paper towel lined baking sheet to drain.

Assemble tacos--spread warm tortillas with remoulade, top with 3 or 4 oysters, and desired toppings. Serve immediately.

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Ceviche for Beginners: Easy Key Lime Scallop Ceviche

There was a time when I was terrified of ceviche.

A bowl of raw fish?! Cooked without heat??

I remember feeling suspicious about the whole thing.

I've never really been a fan of things that are too raw. Even today. I tend to stay away from very rare steak, only eat the cooked edges of seared tuna, and generally prefer complicated trendy Americanized rolls over more aggressively raw slices of bare sushi. Plates of tartare and carpaccio get pushed in my husband's direction. And while I'm ok with raw egg yolks when they disappear into a chocolate pudding, pasta carbonara, or mayonnaise, I prefer to not see bright yellow oozing all over my breakfast plate.

But the ceviche made regular appearances at the Latin restaurants we frequented growing up, and it wasn't long before I'd braved a bite, then two, and then entire plates of it.

Fresh, bright with citrus and herbs, and just a bit of heat from chile peppers. It was fish, but not fishy. Raw, but tasted somehow, magically, cooked.

It was an ideal summer choice, served alongside crispy tortillas or salty plantain chips.

And the truth is that as far as quick cooking methods,  ceviche is about as easy and no-fuss as you can get. At its most simple, it's simply good seafood or fish tossed with lime or lemon juice.

That's seriously it!

Then you can add herbs, spices, sliced chiles, diced fruit, nuts or vegetables...really just about anything but the base is simple.

This recipe only calls for 4 required ingredients (not counting salt & pepper), and the flavor is incredible. I love these rolled up into warm tortillas for easy ceviche tacos (add some diced avocado for creaminess) or even served with tortilla chips like a kind of entree salsa.

As far as raw seafood is concerned, scallops are one of the safest things you can eat. Tiny bay scallops are in season right now and require no prep, but you can also use large sea scallops and just dice them up.

And key lime juice is particularly special with a brighter and slightly sweeter flavor than regular limes. I juiced my own, but you can buy fresh bottled key lime juice at many grocery stores. Or just use regular limes.

Have you ever tried ceviche? Would you make it at home?

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Easy Key Lime Scallop Ceviche Recipe
Serves 4

Ingredients
1 pound fresh bay scallops, rinsed under cold water
3/4 cup fresh key lime juice (from about 15 key limes, or use regular fresh lime juice)
1-2 jalapenos, seeds removed and very thinly sliced (I used one red and one green for color)
1/4 cup minced chives (substitute finely minced red onion or scallions)
Kosher salt and black pepper

Optional garnishes: chopped cilantro leaves, diced avocado, tortilla or plantain chips, for serving

Directions
Place bay scallops in a large non-reactive bowl (such as glass) and pour in the key lime juice. Add the sliced peppers, and chives. Season with salt and pepper, and toss to coat well. Cover with plastic. Place in fridge for at least 30 minutes, tossing occasionally, and not longer than 3 hours.

Serve cold garnished with cilantro, and with tortillas, plantain chips, or chips on the side.

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Irish Potato Nachos

About 5 year ago, I met up with a couple of my best girlfriends in the city, with the intention of grabbing a late lunch somewhere. We were all going through various disastrous relationship situations and craving a cozy, girly afternoon together away from the guys.

It was the middle of January, and freezing, and after a couple blocks of not finding any place interesting, we gave up and decided to just go into the first place that looked warm and had seating.

That's how we ended up having our girls night at Rogue, a sports bar on a random corner in Chelsea. There was a football game on and the place was filled with men in jerseys rooting loudly for one team or another.

We were the only girls in the place and had no interest in the game, but we were too cold and too hungry to care. We were seated in the middle, and buckets of Corona appeared on the table, courtesy of the guys at the bar.

The menu was made up mostly of the usual bar appetizers--wings, fries, mozzarella sticks, etc., but there was one thing that caught our eye: Irish Nachos.

We ordered it, and it was the perfect thing to warm us up. Hot, thick slices of potato baked to a slight crisp topped with cheese, sour cream, bacon, salsa, and spicy jalapenos.

We fought over each other to devour them and then requested a second and third order to accompany the additional buckets of beer that kept arriving thanks to the generous guys.

The free beers and salty food soon started to take effect, and it wasn't long before we were shouting at the TV along with the guys, laughing hysterically because we didn't even know who we were meant to be rooting for, but enjoying it all the same.

Not exactly the girly day we'd been hoping for, but still somehow, surprisingly, perfect.

Those Irish Nachos have been on my list of things I'd like to recreate for a while now, and seemed like the ideal dish to finally tackle now that the weather is starting to cool and the games are back on.  The thick, crispy slices of potato stand up to the hearty toppings much better than the usual tortilla chips, which have a tendency to get soggy.

I keep my version simple, but it's definitely the sort of thing you could have fun with, adding things like refried beans, pulled pork or brisket, and any manner of salsas.

Just the thing, no matter whom you're rooting for.

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Irish Potato Nachos Recipe
Serves 4 as an appetizer or snack

Ingredients
6 large russet potatoes
Olive oil
Kosher salt and black pepper
1 teaspoon ground cayenne pepper
6 strips bacon
1/2 pound extra sharp cheddar cheese, shredded
1/3 cup pickled jalapeno slices
1 cup sour cream or full-fat Greek yogurt
3 green onions (scallions), minced--green parts only
Chipotle-flavored Tabasco sauce (optional)

Directions
Preheat oven to 450 degrees. Line a large baking or cookie sheet with parchment paper.

Rinse and scrub potatoes well under running water to remove dirt. Dry well with paper towels and slice into 1/2" thick slices (leave peels on). Place in a large bowl and toss potato slices with a few tablespoons of olive oil until well coated. Sprinkle generously with salt, black pepper, and cayenne pepper, and toss again to coat. Spread out on the prepared baking sheet, making sure none overlap, and bake about 20-30 minutes, or until the slices are cooked through and just a bit golden and crispy on top.

While potatoes bake, cook the bacon strips until crisp. Drain on paper towels, chop into small pieces, and set aside. 

When ready, remove cooked potatoes from oven and arrange potato slices in a round oven-safe baking dish or cast iron skillet. (Do not turn the oven off.) Top with the chopped, cooked bacon, followed by the shredded cheese and jalapeno slices. Pop the baking dish back into the still-hot oven and let cook 2-5 minutes, or until the cheese has melted and is bubbly. Remove from oven and top with sour cream, green onions, and Tabasco sauce (if using). Serve immediately.

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Jalapeño Poppers with Bacon (Low Carb Recipe)

Some people think Cinco de Mayo is just Mexico's version of the 4th of July. The truth is the day--which actually commemorates Mexico's win in a minor battle against the French--is barely acknowledged south of the Rio Grande!

It's here in the US where Cinco de Mayo has become a holiday, and an opportunity to celebrate Mexican heritage (and food!).

All that to say that I feel entirely justified sharing these not-in-the-least-bit Mexican jalapeño poppers with you today.

Totally American and perhaps even just a little bit cheesy (both literally and figuratively!), they're still a great party food and will go perfectly with your favorite margarita (yet another slightly-Mexican thing that became bigger than the original when it hit the US--we just really like to run with things here).

I've made jalapeño poppers before, but these are my low-carb version, and I actually like them even better! I've gotten rid of the breading and the frying, and instead split the peppers in half, stuff them with a seasoned cheese mixture and top them off with bits of bacon. I bake them in the oven until the peppers are roasted and the bacon is crisp.  This way you get the flavorful crunch, without the fuss of frying (or the carbs!).

Like all my entertaining recipes, these can be prepared several hours in advance and kept in the fridge until your guests arrive, and then simply baked for about 20 minutes. MUCH better than the high-maintenance fried recipes, which require you to hover over a fryer or pot of hot oil.

When you make these, I recommend that you either wear latex gloves OR coat your hands with some vegetable or olive oil before you start working with the peppers in order to keep from burning yourself with the natural oils of the pepper. And wash your hands well when you finish!

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Low-Carb Jalapeño Poppers
Makes 24 poppers

Ingredients
1 8-oz package full-fat cream cheese, softened
1 tablespoon smoked Spanish paprika
12 jalapeño peppers
4 strips thick-cut bacon (preferably nitrate free), cut into 1/4" pieces

Directions
Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Whisk together the softened cream cheese and smoked paprika until smooth and evenly combined.

Cut each pepper in half lengthwise, and use a spoon to scoop out the center veins and seeds. Discard the seeds.

Fill the cavity in each jalapeño pepper half with a teaspoon or two of the cheese mixture and place cheese side-up on a baking sheet. Top each pepper with 3 or 4 pieces of the cut bacon.

Bake for 20-25 minutes, or until the bacon is crisp and the jalapeño peppers are fully roasted. Let cool 5 minutes before serving.

Tip: To protect your skin from the natural oils in the jalapeño pepper, which can burn or irritate, rub your hands with a tablespoon olive or vegetable oil as you would hand lotion before you begin working with the peppers.

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Sweet Potato Gougeres with Cheddar & Jalapeño

Gougeres, light and airy cheese puffs, are one of my favorite appetizers. There is a restaurant here in the city that serves a basket of them instead of bread, and each time we go, my family manages to devour the basket within seconds of sitting down. We often order a second and a third, and on the way out, we stop by the bakery to buy one of their take-home packages.

Classic gougeres are simply little puffs of choux pastry--the same light, egg-y dough you would use to make eclairs or crullers or profiteroles--that have been made savory by swapping out the sugar for grated cheese and other seasonings like cracked black pepper or herbs. They come together in minutes and can even be made in advance and frozen for future snacking or entertaining.

The version I'm sharing with you today is a little bit different; along with the cheese (cheddar), I've folded in pureed sweet potatoes and a sprinkle of chopped pickled jalapeños. The result is a bit heavier than a traditional gougeres (these don't rise as high and tend to deflate a bit seconds out of the oven) but with that same delicate, almost melt-in-your-mouth, center and crisp outside. The combination of the sweet potato, salty cheddar, and spicy jalapeños is absolute magic.

I recommend serving these sweet potato gougeres with sparkling wine as an appetizer, or split and fill with slices of salty baked ham as an easy brunch dish.

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Sweet Potato Gougeres with Cheddar & Jalapeño
Makes about 2 dozen

Print this Recipe

Ingredients
1 cup water
8 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into small pieces
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1 cup all-purpose flour
5 large eggs, room temperature
1 cup grated cheddar cheese (preferably yellow)
1 cup pureed sweet potatoes (from about 2 peeled sweet potatoes)
1/3 cup pickled jalapeños, coursely chopped
1/2 teaspoon cracked black pepper

Directions
Preheat oven to 425 degrees and line two baking sheets with parchment paper.

Combine the water, butter and salt in a medium saucepan and bring to a rapid boil over high heat. Add the flour, lower the heat, and stir it very rapidly until it comes together into a large, but smooth, lump.

Remove from heat and add to the base of your stand mixer or a large bowl. With the mixer or hand mixer on medium start adding the eggs one at a time, waiting until each is fully incorporated before adding the next. The dough should be shiny and smooth. Once all the eggs are in, beat in the cheese, sweet potato puree, and jalapeños. Stir in the black pepper.

Using about 2 tablespoons of dough for each gouger, drop the dough notion the lined baking sheets, each about 2 inches apart and use slightly damp fingers to round the tops.

Place in the oven for 2 minutes, and then lower the heat to 375. Bake for about 10 minutes, then rotate the pans and bake for an additional 12 to 15 minutes, or until puffs are golden, firm, and puffed slightly.

Serve immediately.

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Jalapeño Ice Cream

A few weeks ago, my friend Rose e-mailed me with an unusual request. She wanted to know if I could help her track down jalapeño ice cream here in the city. "Or," she added, "perhaps you know how to make it?"

"I have no idea where to buy it," I told her, "but I can definitely figure out how to make it." Even as I typed, I was envisioning little green jalapeños steeping and bobbing in a saucer of cream.

The idea of a jalapeño-flavored ice cream might seem a bit odd on paper, but if you think about it for a bit, the idea starts to make sense. Anyone who has ever taken a bite of anything a bit too spicy will know that the most commonly offered remedies are dairy products: a glass of milk ordered at the Mexican restaurant, the dollop of sour cream on a bowl of chili, or a ramekin filled with blue cheese dressing planted in the center of the buffalo wing platter. Serious cooks (or trivia fanatics) may also know that a spoonful of sugar or a drizzle of honey is a smart way to quell the culinary flames brought on by a loose top on the cayenne spice jar.


Taking these factors into consideration, the idea of a cool and creamy ice cream laced with the grassy heat of jalapeño peppers really seems quite fascinating!

Like with most recipes, I decided to look back into my archives to see what's worked in the past. Custard ice creams, rich with copious egg yolks, are popular, but of all the frozen treats I've ever made, my favorite is still the Lebanese milk ice cream which uses cornstarch in it's base.

Essentially a frozen pudding, the texture is thick and velvet-like and it scoops beautifully. And because there are no yolks in the batter, the flavor of the ice cream really has a chance to shine through sans competition. The kicker is that it's quick, and virtually fool-proof--a bonus for those of you who have had trouble with custards breaking or curdling.


For flavorings, I used 3 jalapeños, one vanilla bean (I buy them inexpensively in bulk from this online shop), and a 1/4 cup of molasses; the latter which brought out the naturally earthy and muddy tones of the jalapeño in a way that I never expected.

Honestly, it was the addition of molasses which made me fall in love with this recipe and what has me craving another bite as I type this. Unfortunately, i don't have any ice cream left in my freezer. I packed up the entire batch I made, surrounded it with ice packs, and handed it off to Rose and her boyfriend Mike who made the trip here expressly to pick it up.


And the reason for the request? It was their anniversary, and Rose wanted to surprise her guy with this treat, which had caught his eye in a magazine ages ago.

I think it goes without saying that this ice cream is an acquired taste. As Rose described it to me in her e-mail the next day, "It was really interesting and complex - starting off on one note, and ending on another (hot!) one! It was like mind-trick ice cream, because it felt so cool but tasted so hot."

If the above appeals to you. If you're into spicy cocktails and keep a bottle of hot sauce at your desk (I always do!), well then I say go, run, make it now and tell me what you think!



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And if you ever need any entertaining or cooking advice, please don't hesitate to e-mail me.
Thanks for reading!

Jalapeño Ice Cream
Makes about 6 1/2 cup servings
This egg less ice cream uses cornstarch to form a creamy, almost velvet-like base. Depending on how spicy you would like it, you can adjust the number of jalapenos in this recipe. Don’t skip the molasses because that brings out the earthy tones of the jalapeño (trust me on this!)

Ingredients
1 1/2 cups heavy cream
1 1/2 cups whole milk
3/4 cup sugar
1 teaspoon salt
3 fresh jalapeño peppers, split in half
1 vanilla bean, split in half
1/4 cup molasses
3 tablespoons cornstarch
A few drops green food coloring (optional)

Combine the heavy cream, whole milk, sugar, and salt in a medium saucepan. Add the molasses, jalapeños, and vanilla bean. Place over medium heat and heat just until bubbles start to form (it happens quickly so stay with it), stirring to dissolve the molasses and sugar. Remove from heat, cover, and let cool to room temperature.

Once the cream mixture has cooled, use a sieve to strain out the jalapeños (and any accompanying seeds) and vanilla beans, and return the strained cream mixture to a saucepan. Use a measuring cup to scoop out about 1/2 cup of this mixture (doesn't have to be exact) into a separate bowl or cup and whisk in the 3 tablespoons of cornstarch to form a slurry. Pour the cornstarch slurry back in with the rest of the cream and return to the stove.

[If a green tint is desired (totally optional!), this is the time to whisk in a few drops of green food color.]

Over medium heat, cook the cream mixture while stirring constantly in one direction until the mixture thickens. Continue to let it cook for an additional few minutes, tasting it occasionally until you can no longer detect the taste of cornstarch. Once the starch is completely cooked and the mixture is thick enough to coat the back of a spoon, turn off the heat.

Pour the mixture into a large bowl and press a piece of plastic wrap against the surface (this will help prevent a skin from forming on it while it cools). Chill in your refrigerator for 3-4 hours until completely cool (you can make this up to 24 hours in advance).

Freeze in ice cream maker according to manufacturer's instructions. Once it's the consistency of soft-serve, pour into an air-tight and freezer proof container and freeze for at least 4 hours (again, overnight is also OK) before serving.

The ice cream will keep in a sealed container in your freezer for up to 2 weeks.

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