
It takes about 20 or so minutes for the transformation to be complete. When I return, the slices are flatter and slightly shriveled, the top layer creased with a ring from the bottom of the heavy pan. I lift the colander and place it under the sink, allowing cool water to flow over the eggplant and wash off the excess salt and juices. It was always this part that confused me when I first learned the method; why rinse in water after spending so much time to remove? The receiver bowl holds the answer to this question in the form of an inch or so of brownish liquid. I taste it and it's unpleasant--salty, bitter, acidic. It's so strong that I wonder if there could be a use for it. Compared with this, the cold water from the tap feels practically baptismal.
I feel protective of the wet rounds in the sink. They're not as spongy and hardy as they once were; they feel tender, softer, and much more vulnerable. Some have slight tears in the center where the flesh has constricted. I've put them through salt therapy and they've emerged sweeter, but in need of greater care. I rinse and pat each one gently with paper towels, arranging the dried rounds into neat lines on a sheet pan. They're ready to be cooked now.
In the essay "Alone in the Kitchen with an Eggplant," Laurie Colwin recounts the pleasures of consuming one as a solitary meal. I read the essay in a collection by the same name. The book is an ode to solitary dining, and it was this which inspired my own little ode to this versatile fruit. I'm not sure what it is, but there is something exciting about eggplants. I see one and instantly feel the urge to pierce the gorgeous royal purple skin. In other (ancient) cultures, the eggplant was revered. This is evident in its name. Only in English is it known by such an uninspiring, prosaic name. Call it aubergine, like the French. Or melanzana like the Italians. In Spanish it is berengena, or "apple of love," a name derived from the ancient Spanish belief that this enticing and somewhat naughty looking fruit was a powerful aphrodesiac. Regardless of name and preparation, the eggplant is hearty and versatile enough to sate the cravings of even the most devout carnivore. I am not a vegetarian, but I am happy eating eggplant as a main course.
It's late summer and the eggplants have never been more lovely. Here's my recipe for the eggplant ricotta bake; it's a bit involved, but the steps are easy and relaxing--just perfect for the cool evenings of a late August day.
Eggplant Ricotta Bake
To prepare the eggplant:
1 whole globe eggplant (also known as Western; that's the big ones you find most commonly in grocery stores)
Kosher salt
1 cup of whole wheat flour
1 tablespoon of dried oregano
2 tablespoons of fresh basil, minced
1 tablespoon of crushed black pepper
1/2 cup milk
1 egg
Olive Oil for frying
For the filling:
2 cups of whole milk ricotta
1 egg
1/4 chopped roasted red pepper
1/4 chopped marinated sundried tomatoes
salt and pepper to taste
2 cups marinara sauce
1/2 cup grated mozzarella cheese
1/2 cup grated pecorino romano (or other hard cheese)
To make:
1.) Slice the eggplant into 1/2 inch thick rounds and salt to remove bitter juices (see above for instructions). Rinse then pat dry.
2.) In a shallow bowl or small baking dish, mix the flour, salt, pepper, and oregano. Be sure to taste the flour and adjust the seasoning as necessary.
3.) In a separate bowl, beat the egg and milk together. Dip each slice of eggplant in the milk mixture then drop into the flour, making sure to coat on both sides. Tap off excess flour and set on a baking sheet. Repeat with each slice of eggplant.
4.) Heat oil in a skillet and fry each slice, a few at a time. Be sure not to overcrowd the pan. Turn frequently until golden on each side. Remove with a slotted spoon or tongs and place on a rack to drain. Salt the finish fried slices to keep them crisp.
5.) While the eggplant is cooling, mix the ricotta with the egg. Add the oregano, tomato, red pepper, and season to your liking.
To assemble the dish:
1.) Start with a few tablespoons of marinara on the bottom. Add a layer of eggplant, overlapping so that there are no empty spots.
2.) Cover with all the ricotta mixture
3.) Add another layer of eggplant, then top with the sauce.
4.) Finish with the mozzarella and pecorino
5.) Bake at 400 degrees for about 30 minutes or until cheese is bubble and ricotta puffs a bit. Let rest for 10 minutes before serving.